Machining of the T-Slotted cross slide continues with some metrology of the old cross slide and the newer saddle to make sure the dovetails will be cut at the correct location. The dovetails are then machined with the dovetail cutting tool. Machining the gib requires some custom fixture hardware, so that is manufactured and the gib is shaped to size. Holes are then drilled and tapped along the side of the cross slide for the gib mounting screws.
The newer lathe saddle finally spurred me on to start the Model Lathe Accessories (MLA) T-Slotted cross slide casting that I had in storage for quite a few years. This new cross slide will add quite a few capabilities to the lathe that are really nice for model engineering: a nice surface to attach work for line boring, the possibility of using a rear-mounted toolpost and the nicest feature is that it will be brand new.
A unplanned auction win resulted in a upgraded saddle for the South Bend 10K lathe. In this article we review the saddle to appraise it's condition and then start fitting the new saddle to the existing lathe hardware. The saddle was also upgraded with additional oilers for improved lubrication against the lathe bed. This saddle upgrade will also lead to a compound upgrade and a new, freshly machined T-Slot cross slide.
Test bars are very straight, very round bars used to setup machinery and work fixtures in the shop. They can also be handy for inspecting run-out in chucks and collets. You can buy them commercially, but like most metrology equipment they can be very pricey and therefore hard to justify for the limited use seen in the home shop. In this article a moderately priced bar is made that should satisfy most home shop needs.
The last project required a keyway to be broached in a shop made gear. I already have a nice Hassay-Savage keyway broach kit, but as is so often the case, the kit didn't have a guide bushing for the particular sized hole used in this gear. Rather than wait a week to get the correctly sized bushing via mail order, this article will show how to make one in the shop out of scrap so the job can be completed in a timely manner.
If you are working on old gas light fixtures or strangely enough, microphone stands, you might have the need to single-point cut a 27 TPI thread with your South Bend Lathe. While this particular thread setting isn't directly available through the QCGB, with the addition of a 42 tooth gear into the gear train cutting this thread is possible. Back in the day there was enough interest in this that South Bend sold the optional gear.
The gear creation project continues with indicating the blank to run true, setting the cutter height, cutter depth and finally cutting the blank with an involute gear cutter. After the blank is deburred, the gear is inspected with the two wire method and a recommended web page with gear information is shown. After that, the gear keyway is cut with a broach and another way of making gears is shown.
Several future projects in the work queue will need some shop made gears. Almost all the necessary tooling for gear making is already in the shop and I would like to make a gear now to help streamline the process for making future gears. Since I already have a set of the proper involute gear cutters for the lathe's change gears, I'll start with making a gear that will allow single-point threading on the lathe a thread TPI that is not available as a selection with the lathe's QCGB.
After the VFD installation, sometimes when using the lathe I wished for a tach to keep track of the spindle RPM's while adjusting the variable speed control. While not completely necessary, it is sometimes convenient to have an accurate gauge of spindle speed than just a guess by the sound of the lathe and location of the drive belts. Luckily, digital tachs using a hall effect sensor are accurate, cheap and relatively easy to install as shown in this article.
In the hobby shop it's a quite common need to gently tap objects into various forms of alignment. A soft blow hammer works great for this, but sometimes it's difficult to get enough room for a good swing or the item to be moved is quite small. This shot filled dead-blow knocker, with non-marring Delrin and brass ends, is very handy in such cases and is a fun weekend project that is machined entirely on the lathe.